Penzance: Is This the UK’s Next Holiday Hotspot?
Nestled at the end of the train line and acting as the starting point and major hub for the ‘wild west’ of Cornwall, Penzance has seen its share of changing times over the years. At the moment, it’s modernising at a pace, with the recent announcement that the town will be receiving a share of the Government’s £655 million high street fund to help regeneration. Yes, the pasties and the pirates might still be here, but it’s easier than ever to find a lot more to this town if you ask anyone on the street - there’s an intensely loyal community and pride here which is starting to shine through again.
I arrive on a gentle summer’s evening, sailing boats gently pacing across Mounts Bay. I head straight to Chapel House, a glamorous townhouse hotel set at the bottom of Chapel Street, Penzance’s Georgian centre and an area enjoying local prosperity akin to its standing a hundred years ago. Everything here is bright, light and airy, the owner Sue’s passion for renovating and restoring the unique building winning praise and acclaim in the form of numerous awards and returning visitors. I can instantly see that she works hard, constantly on her feet and on the go in the hotel’s communal kitchen space rustling up a gorgeous menu and ensuring attention to detail is the name of the game. She’s jovial, positive, optimistic and endlessly friendly, a theme which I’d soon realise I’d keep finding here. The hotel’s rooms and suites all command a view over Mount’s Bay, which certainly does help add to the atmosphere.
Amongst local business owners, the ‘we’re in it together’ attitude is what stands out and it ensures everyone keeps pushing the town to improve and try new things. I eat some intricate but delightful, simple food at Shore Restaurant at the top of town on my first evening and discuss with the restaurant owner, operator and only chef Bruce Rennie what really makes him tick doing what he does down here. ‘I love serving sustainable, quality local food that supports local businesses and fishermen. It’s about simplicity and efficiency, I grow most of the food in my own garden and at the local community farm. I love seeing the people of Penzance feeling optimistic about their town again.’ One of his standout dishes for me is a mackerel sashimi with beetroot and a beautiful wasabi sorbet. Fresh and elegant.
The next morning I’m off to Jubilee Pool, a gloriously designed art deco seawater lido that feels like a little sanctuary set within Penzance’s harbourside. I visit first thing in the morning and attend the official re-opening after an extensive bar and cafe refurbishment in collaboration with local suppliers Yallah Coffee. Bright whitewashed walls and marine blue changing rooms sparkle in the sunshine and I enjoy my breakfast with fanciful impressions in my mind of early 20th century community bathers coming here together to get all the local gossip. Again, the feeling I get is of people pulling together to make it all work. ‘We were here until 9pm last night, the pool’s manager Abbie tell me, ‘it has been a true community effort and to re-open this pool back to people of Penzance is a wonderful feeling. We’ve got such a diverse mix of people using this pool, some very rural communities and some very hard-up communities, so it’s so important that we're here for everyone.’ I swim lazily and enjoy listening to the babble of the families coming and going. It feels inclusive and care-free, with people of all ages just enjoying each other’s company. In October, the pool will open its geothermal project, becoming the first lido in the country to be heated with ‘hot rocks’ underground.
I take an evening jaunt down Chapel St and see a side to the town that’s also encouraging, people eating and drinking out again. Not so long ago, Penzance’s street felt tired, but people are beginning to trust in their town again and a visit to the Cornish Barn confirms my feeling that people are enjoying the relaxed, locally sourced, hint-of-a mediterranean sun terrace vibe here.
The next morning a trip to Polgoon Vineyard also confirms a feeling of a work ethic and positivity here that keeps things improving. The owners bought this patch of land at the turn of the millenium and have slowly learnt on the job. It’s now producing fantastic lunches and vineyard tours for visitors but more importantly thousands of bottles of locally grown wine and cider. I finish my trip by stopping off at St Michael’s Mount and the ever popular Godolphin Arms for lunch and a pint, and on the way back, the fascinating Treemenhere Sculpture Garden. Art fans, this place is a must. I instantly feel at peace here and I found it so easy to be captivated for hours by the clever sub-tropical planting, interesting vistas and glorious sculptures by names such as Richard Long and Tom Leaper. Definitely not one for the tired, screaming kids, but it feels like a sanctuary and at this point in my trip it was the perfect tonic and opportunity to escape the crowds.
Overall, there’s a feeling of optimism in Penzance, a new vibrancy that feels as though it’s bouncing off the town’s calm, cobbled streets and terraces. The town’s gardens are looking bright and colourful, the streets are clean and people are enjoying the nightlife again. It’s great for a tourist, but maybe Bruce Rennie is right, what’s really most important is that people feel good about where they live again. After that, in time, the visitors will arrive.
