A Weekend in Northumberland
INTRO
Northumberland is the northern most county in England. It’s also the least densely populated, with only 62 people per square kilometre inhabiting its windswept shores. These two facts were at the forefront of my mind as I ventured to explore the landscapes of Bamburgh and Seahouses, about an hour’s drive from the thriving city of Newcastle, and only a short drive from the border with Scotland.
The area showcases a unique and distinctive blend of ancient Viking history, great expanses of sandy beaches and wild, unforgiving stretches of beautifully protected coastline. Amongst this, little villages, like Bamburgh, sit facing the elements on the shoreline with their light, honey coloured stone buildings. There’s an atmosphere here that feels steeped in history.
Despite a bustling tourist scene, quiet pockets of ancient Northumberland can always be found, and I was captivated by its welcome, its authenticity and it restorative fresh air.
Friday
10AM
A JOURNEY NORTH
I woke up beside the Tyne, spending the previous night in Newcastle and this morning embarking on the drive north. It’s not long before the coastline emerges on the horizon, and I stop off at the Amble Harbour Village for coffee, perched amongst dormant trawlers and lobster posts – the remnants of a passing storm whipping up the sea and spreading the distinctive smell of fish and chips and the newly created Northumberland Seafood Centre and Hatchery across the landscape. It’s my first taste of the region’s unique ruggedness, with its fresh Scandinavian sea breeze and brilliant, sparkling coastal light. Before leaving I wander around the little huts that showcase local makers and food producers, such as the Geordie Banger Company (geordiebangercompany.co.uk), and I spend some time meandering Amble’s streets chatting to locals, who all tell me they embrace the spirit of buying local and understand what it means for the prosperity of the area.
1PM
HOWICK HALL AND GARDENS
Full of coffee and blasted by the sea breeze, I’m moving slightly north this afternoon to the Howick Hall and Gardens (howickhallgardens.com) I meet its head gardener Robert, who tells me the hall is still very much a family affair and the home of the current Lord and Lady Howick. I enjoy hearing about Robert’s own links to the hall – many members of his family work on the estate. We wander the impressive landscape while Robert recounts stories of his adventures to far flung corners of the globe to collect new species for the ever-evolving 65 acres here. I’m impressed by not only his knowledge but his dedication to Howick, and I wonder how many gardens like this there are in the country that could benefit from some attention by such a passionate head gardener. We continue strolling down shaded paths shrouded by Camelias and Rhododendrons, while the centuries old trees on the garden’s perimeter shelter this spot from the wind off the deceptively close North Sea. As we walk around, I spot enticing glimpses of the coastline through the garden’s wild borders.
3PM
EXPLORING SEAHOUSES
After some respite, and looking for a late lunch, it’s on towards the aptly named town of Seahouses. As I approach the town I get a sense of its rather literal name – rows of homes right of the coast with unrivalled views out to the glistening sea beyond. Seahouses feels to me how a working harbour should. It’s bustling with a quiet industriousness while its soul is firmly placed in those spaces between land and sea I feel a strong connection to. In this sense, Seahouses feels homely, cosy and welcoming, and I can picture how appealing the warm glow of its lights must feel to fisherman returning home after battling the unforgiving North Sea. After fish and chips in traditional local diner Pinnacles (pinnaclesfishandchips.com, 01665 720708), I take a meandering stroll along the sand dunes and the beach to the left of the harbour, before returning to hole up beside the fire at The Olde Inn (seahouses.co.uk/theoldeship). I warm up here, admiring the collection of shipping paraphernalia that adorn its crowded but well kept walls.
6PM
WARMTH OF THE FIRE
My accommodation for the night is The Old Rectory in Howick, a B&B with cats, a roaring fire and good books for company. I spend some time relaxing here, pouring over my photographs and notes from the day. It’s been a busy and enjoyable start to my time in Northumberland, and the early evening is spent stoking the glowing coal embers while making plans for the next day.
10PM
DOWN THE LOCAL
The local inn, The Cottage, is somewhat hidden down wooded lanes, but I’m told is a reasonable pub with a good atmosphere. Well rested and still full from my hearty fish supper, I head there for an after-dinner pint, and am warmly greeted by a gathering of locals who welcome me at the bar. A mixture of drinkers and eaters complemented by a local darts match give the place a feeling of friendliness and comfort in what is a deceivingly remote location. After a couple of the local Farne ale I wander to my home for the night, gazing up at the pristine black wilderness above and alarmingly bright stars. I notice the light levels around are almost non-existent and realise why the area has recently awarded dark sky status. It was an enjoyable end to my first day.
Saturday
10AM
NORTHUMBRIA HISTORY
I rise early for a leisurely breakfast before the short drive to Warkworth Castle (english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/warkworth-castle-and-hermitage/) Warkworth itself is a very pretty village – almost picture postcard in its appearance – but it’s not until you come across its looming Mott and Bailey castle and see it from above does its location really make sense. The tour of the castle itself brought to life the dramatic history of The Percy Family and Yorkists here, and put the area’s great historical importance into context. I spend the best part of the morning wandering the Keep’s maze of rooms, conjuring up images in my mind of stately banquets, roaring fires and traditional music being played as part of the day-to-day life of this impressive fortress.
1PM
RNLI GRACE DARLING MUSEUM
I join the beautiful coast road north, which will take me to my next destination at Bamburgh. I visit the RNLI’s Grace Darling Museum (rnli.org/find-my-nearest/museums/grace-darling-museum), learning about this Victorian heroine who rowed to the stricken vessel the SS Forfarshire on the Farne Islands from the Longstone Lighthouse on the morning of 7th September 1838 with her father William. They saved 9 souls, and such was the amazement of the general public at the time that a woman was part of the rescue, she was celebrated and turned into somewhat of a reluctant national icon. Tragically, she died of consumption only four years later. I enjoyed spending some time in this lovingly put together museum, as it recounts the story of the rescue in impressive detail
3PM
A JOURNEY TO FARNE
Inspired by the story of Grace Darling and her intrepid rescue, I head to the harbour at Seahouses to meet George, owner of Golden Gate Boat Trips (discoverthefarneislands.co.uk) and an experienced skipper and lighthouse keeper. I’m hooked as he tells stories of his forty-plus years at sea while we bounce and skip over the increasing swell towards the Farne Islands. Once there, I see thousands of seals basking in the sunshine. We also sail past Longstone Lighthouse, home of Grace Darling and the dramatic rescue 180 years ago. It’s only up close I appreciate quite how dangerous these craggy outcrops could be in bad weather. George is the only boat owner licenced to take guided tours of Longstone – as he is the lighthouse keeper – so I feel in safe hands!
6PM
POTTED LOBSTER
After a bracing afternoon in the elements, I’ve decided to treat myself to some local seafood and book into the Potted Lobster in Bamburgh for an early dinner (thepottedlobsterbamburgh.co.uk, 01668 214088). In cosy, warm surroundings I eat buttered potted lobster on warm bread for starter, followed by delicious handmade fish goujons washed down with a pint of local Rigg & Furrow Northumberland Ale. It’s been a busy day, and I enjoy taking my time and soaking up the low-key evening as I bury myself deep into my book.
Sunday
10AM
CASTLE TOUR
Waking up in Bamburgh, the next obvious destination for me is the castle (bamburghcastle.com, 01668 214208) which guards over the town with impressive dominance on a rocky plateau, overlooking the village and the expansive beach below. I get shown around by the current owner – Bamburgh is unique in the fact it is still family owned – and marvel at the incredible sense of royal history and the importance of these lands. The castle’s views across the wild Northumberland countryside and coastline are unrivalled in the area, and I spend a bit of time soaking up the ancient atmosphere here at the same time as enjoying the artefacts, museums and other buildings within the castle’s walls.
1PM
A VISIT TO HOLY ISLAND
To further deepen my knowledge of the area’s history and the immense power once based here, I head to the Holy Island of Lindesfarne (lindisfarne.org.uk) to walk around the famous priory, built in the 11th century. Crossing from the mainland to Holy Island feels like an event in itself – twice a day the road is covered by the sea. It’s a strange feeling driving on a small stretch of tarmac surrounded by seaweed and sand! The island tells a story of a different world of ancient history, and I ponder on how it must have felt to have landed on these desolate shores to bring Christianity to England, as St Cuthbert did more than 1500 years ago. I sit for a moment of reflection in the current Parish Church of St Mary the Virgin, in complete silence save for the wind at the door and the faint rumble of the sea below.
3PM
WALKING ON PRISTINE SAND
Back south towards Bamburgh I decided to stretch my legs on the huge length of sand that extends out beyond the castle and meets the North Sea, with views out to the Farne Islands beyond. The beach was almost empty aside from a few windswept dogs and their owners - a lovely by-product of both the time of year and lack of population density in this part of the world. I ended up strolling across to Budle Bay, once a signifiant port transporting all manner of goods throughout the middle ages, and completed my walk by climbing through the expansive sand dunes to the golf course and then back into Bamburgh itself.
6PM
My last port of call on my trip to Northumberland is The Bamburgh Castle Inn (bamburghcastlehotel.co.uk, 01665 720 283) situated just down the road at Seahouses. It feels nice to see Seahouses again, where I visited earlier in my trip, and embrace the cosy evening atmosphere in the pub. Locals come and go and join each other telling stories of their winter projects or seafaring activities over the weekend. Sufficiently warmed by the pub’s roaring fire, I return to my room in the inn and admire the view of the boats at rest in the little harbour at the bottom of the road – the rustle of the ever present waves beyond the harbour walls reminding me of this area’s consistent link and reliance on this stretch of the North Sea.
HOW TO GET THERE
I flew from Exeter airport to Newcastle airport. Flights also available from Newquay, London City, Southampton, Aberdeen, Cardiff and Paris with Flybe (https://www.flybe.com/flights-from/newcastle)
Train tickets with LNER from £21.00 from London to Newcastle.
Renting a car is the best option once in Newcastle.
ACOMMODATION
The Old Rectory Howick – from £75 – a cosy, luxury B&B offering with private parking only 400 yards from the sea. Large rooms and roaring fires. (oldrectoryhowick.co.uk/)
Budle Hall – from £100 for a double – a large, family run country house with a homely feel. Large well appointed rooms. (budlehall.com/)
Bamburgh Castle Inn – from xxx – a modern hotel overlooking Seahouses harbour with an excellent restaurant serving local food, ales and wines. (bamburghcastlehotel.co.uk)
